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Gunny (11 months old about ten years ago) is the dog in the following photos. He was already through force fetch, force to pile and collar conditioned. The rectangular placeboard (in the photos) evolved to using a round one more recently. Pounce and Gigi were simply being cast back to a "round place" (and returned to one). .
                                         

Pounce - 8 months old

   The following are two links from Butch Goodwin's Website which 
     was the original source of using the two bumper 3HC approach.

             recent sessions
             (plus a diagram)

Copyright © kwickLabsii. All rights reserved

                                               
                          Three Handed Casting (3HC) - Two Bumper Technique
                                                              (re-edited older page)

The introduction of "thee handed casting" can be simplified greatly by using the technique of "identifying". "Identifying" means to initially throw a bumper to the desired "position/target".    
            
Teach the left and right backs individually and before doing "overs".  Determine the dominant "back" turn direction and do more back casts for the "weaker" side. Then work on the left and right "overs" individually. Make the individual cast introductions simple and balanced. Correct repetition, practice and being precise while keeping it fun should be the teaching focus. 

When the pup understands each individual cast thru repetition........a combination of two is taught next....as in a "back" with an "over".  Make use of the fact that it is easier for a pup to cast "back" to an identified, tossed bumper while wheeling away from an "over" placed bumper.
This is not a one day drill. Keep each session short with no testing. Follow the standards of quality teaching. Show the dog what is expected and make each step seamless....and fun.

The guidelines for a well planned session are 1) begin with what was taught the lesson before (review), 2) seamlessly present a slightly new, sequential skill (introduce & teach) and 3) end by doing something the pup is very good at (finish on a positive note). 

Eventually, all four casts can be combined. The final expectation would be casting "back" while wheeling toward/past either side where over bumpers are in view....without any "identification".

To review, the initial mechanics of this approach uses only two bumpers. Every bumper is thrown as an "identifying" toss. When two are involved, the pup always "picks up" the second thrown bumper first.  In the beginning every initial "back" cast retrieve should be initiated with the dog pivoting away from any "over" thrown bumper.  The challenge becomes when(?) to ask the dog to pivot "past" an over bumper. If the casts have become an automatic reflex (produced only with many, many correct reps), the pup will easily cast/pivot past visible, over bumpers. 

This should be taught as a fun, exciting drill using a calm, quiet voice. Work slowly and let the pup think about her responses. Well timed praising is "gold". This is a priceless time to enhance the teacher/student relationship.  "It's not you or me....it's us." Teamwork is a learned concept.

This drill can be done without a placeboard by simply "meeting" the dog or heeling back to the position where the casting is to be done from. A 2'X3' mat works well, too.
                              
Early on my pups were always conditioned to a "place board". For example, Pounce was fed on one. Later, OB had her routinely walking over one, sitting on one and finally casting to and retrieving from remote sits off it.  In this drill, a pup with prior teaching about placeboards knows where they are supposed to work from. As the drill progresses, the pup returns with a simple hand motion to the "place board". They gradually learn to turn around and "square up" from prior/proper OB sequencing (many, many "reps"). It is useful to introduce the "look" command (responsive eye contact) when facing the handler on early remote sits.

 A checkcord may be the controlling device (or not). I have (in the past) used a Flexi-lead because it is simple, consistent and effective. Most retriever trainers will frown on the use of a Flexi-lead. However, after watching my pro use one, it was rather obvious that any distraction or lack of skill in using a "Flexi" just wasn't an issue.

               note: I used a seven foot lead with my last two pups....Pounce and Gigi. Less is
                         actually better.                    
               note: A very fast, driven pup is often difficult to control with a physical restraint. 
                         That's why I've found going to the "place" extremely useful. The pup is way
                          more responsive (better prepared to be a student.)
  
In conclusion, the ideal location to start the drill is with a slight incline in the back. When a pup pivots the back bumper(s) visibility is excellent. With a very fast, eager pup having the return line just in front of a "wall" works well. Also, a "placeboard' provides a better target than knees.                       note: In Dennis Voigt's "Field Guide To 25 Essential Retriever Training Drills
                               for Handling" he suggests using a small 2'X3' line mat.